Textile Crafts of Rajasthan

Textile Crafts of Rajasthan
Rajasthani prints are in much demand in domestic and foreign markets because of its beauty, utility attractive design and simplicity. An artist meets the demands of the customer by exquisitely and skillfully using the indigenous raw material. The embroidery designs expressed even in the folk dresses are indeed fascinating. The interesting designs on the odhanis of Rajasthan greatly attract the customers. Not only mirrors but beads, shells and metallic pieces are used in their production. A variety of designs in the prints are introduced. The popular motifs like mango, lotus, peacock, elephant and camel are used on the fabrics. Rajasthani folk dresses look fascinating by the embroidery designs made by the artist. Like folk lore and folk songs, these designs in Rajasthan have come down from past many centuries. Subtle combination and color designs look very fanciful and attractive to eye. Alam was a kind of muslin and was used for
pagri jama, Odhani and angarakhi. Records show that Alam was dyed, printed and some times used for gold embroidery. Atlas was a common name used for both plain and flowered satin and the term was in use till the beginning of the present century. As its Arabic name indicates, Atlas was a material of foreign origin and a mention of it as a soft fabric is to be found in an early medieval text, the Nuhsiphr. Salu, a material for turban, was manufactured at Burhanpur in central India which was also a well known printing center, Iiaycha stands for lined silk weaving centres in India, but at Jaipur, Gujarati IIayacha was used. Mahmudi probably named after Mahmud Khan Khilzi (1436-1469) of Malwa was one of the finest variety of muslin woven at Chander. This material was very popular among Jaipur royal family members and courtiers. Mansuria Malmal produced in Kota area is the finest. Masuria sarees have greatly attracted the Indian as well as foreign markets. Cotton is used for susis narrow fabrics with alternating dark blue and white or red vertical stripes. The weavers, numbering a hundred of village kaithoon in Kota district excel in preparing the master pieces of Masuria. Rajasthan has also a variety of Bandhini. It is worn at the time of marriage and by all newly marriage girls, is red color, known as Chundri. Jaipur and Jodhpur, the main centers of this specialty have produced many Bandhej workers who excel in their jobs. Each area, each caste and tribe have their own special designs. The craft of type and dye as called Bandhani is a complicated and skilled work of ornamenting the cloth with combination of colors. The process of preparing Bandhanis is very interesting to look at. At one time this art was prevalent throughout the country but today it has become the specialty of Gujarat and Rajasthan. In Gujarat, the Bandhani art is expressed in the form of Garchola. In Rajasthan the artisans have excelled in their performance and contributed to its popularity. Baran, a town in the Kota district was known for the tie and dye work. The local Chunaris were of two kinds, pacca and kacha of fast and fleeting colors respectively. The former are known according to the pattern produed on them for example, Ekdali, showing small circles and squares, Tikunthi circles and squares in groups of three, Chaubasi circles and squares in groups of four; and satbandi, when in groups of seven, Jaldar and Beldar Shikari a design with human figures, horses, tigers, elephants etc. The work of tying and dyeing is also practiced in Kota but at a small scale. The dyers called as Dhanak and Loharia produce the lovely head dresses which are used throughout Rajasthan. The example of beautiful Dhanak and Loharia works are in local term called as chira which consists of stripes of different colors and designed diagonally. Sanganer, a small town near Jaipur is now renowned throughout the world for its famous Sanganeri prints. The rural textile designs were greatly influenced by the religious traditions. The craftsman owed their inspiration from the rituals practiced in the temples. Many craft schools sprang up around the religious centres in Rajasthan for meeting the demand of the pujaris and pilgrims of these temples. As the pieces having perfection without blemish could be offered to the god heads, the special temple cloth printing came into existence. These temple clothes were an extension of the fresco or mural tradition. They depicted episodes from the Mahabharata, Ramayana and Puranic legends and myths. Nathdwara in Rajasthan was the pioneer centre of this craft. Some designs are linked with Srinathji like the Pichwai to meet the religious sentiments of the followers. Sarees, wraps, large handkerchiefs, quilts and towels are some of the items available in these prints. Craftsman brought about innovations by using sandalwood blocks for printing which give a sweet smell of perfume to the cloth. About three hundred years old printing industry of Barmer, a border desert district, has made successful inroad in to modern fashions. Barmeri prints of dark shades of blue and red geometrical patterns all over; popularly called Ajrak is a craze with youngsters of urban areas. It is printed on both the sides. To protect from fierce heat of the desert, turbans and shawls made in dark colors are used. Chirkalabuti, another bold design of Barmeri prints, is also very popular. In Rajasthan the work of Kalamkari i.e. picturisation of work on the cloth is quite famous. The walls of many houses and even hotels are decorated with these lengthy cloths called Phad. The Phad of Pabuji is well known for depiction of his heroic tale on the cloth. The tale is picturised on long pieces of cloth with bright tints, red being the prominent colors. In the villages people exhibit these cloths and worship their hero. The Bhopa and Bhopi move around from place to place and sing the songs in praise of chivalry of their hero Pabuji while these scroll are laid on some platform before the gathering. His legendary deeds are also narrated in khayals by artists. Pabuji-ki-Phad, a dance drama based on half lagend and half historical facts, is very popular with the lovers of art and tradition. Chittorgarh is famous for floor coverings called Jajams. Woman’s skirts and warn by the Gaduliya Lohar women. The wraps bear red background and patterns of chilies spread all over. The Jajams give a lovely look with their bright red and black colors. Jaisalmer has a specialty of its resist print. These are printed under a low temperature in night and winter months. Special blocks in dipped wax are used for pressing the cloth and solidifying the material. The ritual saree called jarribhat possessing elaborate designs with bright colors is used by the women of the region. The Bhil tribes, living in the Dungarpur and Banswara districts of Rajasthan wear the ornamented clothes full of gaudy colors. The best known prints are the Nanana pieces used by the local Bhil tribal women for skirts of dark in different colors. Chapakali which is evidently a corruption of Chapakali, a ten petal flower is at the top in all its golden glory, while the stem curves slightly at the base towards the right, with branches bearing orange or yellow foliage on both sides laden with red fruits. The Mirchi (chili) motif has the red and white stem, and the background tinged red with thick lines in white. The buta motif is a fruit bearing tree with branches, leaves and flowers. Another traditional piece is the Bhil women’s borderless neeli-ki-saree printed in wax resist process of several varieties. Pichwais made of different materials are also finest examples of richly embroidered works at Nathdwara. Thus it can be seen that the tie and dye work, hand-weaving, printing and embroidery used in producing textiles in Rajasthan have perhaps few challengers in richness and excellence.