Aieed 2011

Saree Weaving in Andhra Pradesh

Andhra Pradesh in India has the distinct advantage of being very multi faceted, talented and gifted, in the context of Saree Weaving. It not only has access to cotton, tussar silks and mulberry rearing, the raw material so required for the making of good sarees, but also the highly evolved styles of painting, dyeing and weaving.

GUNTUR- MANGALAGIRI / WARP PATTERNING

Guntur- Mangalgiri sarees are known by their tightly woven structure and have a count of 60- 80 counts. The tightly woven structure is achieved through cross-shed beating and well knit borders to give a fine edge.

According to a local saying, a Guntur saree could carry water for a length of time before it came through. Its design potential lies in its wide range of plain color bodies and fine stripes and

checks, that makes it apt, not just for sarees, but for other fabric types also.

VENKATGIRI

Venkatagiri sarees is made out of essentially fine cotton of 100 to 200 counts. The ground fabric is embellished with gold bands in the borders. The end pieces are tied with simple warp/weft patterns. Its beauty lies in its well woven structures with beautifully balanced borders and end pieces.
The various motifs include stylized parrots, asharfis (gold coins), and stylized leaf-forms, woven half in gold and half in cotton threads.
Very pleasurable indeed is the Geographical Indication (GI) tag awarded from the registrar of intellectual property rights.

UPPADA - WARP AND WEFT PATTERNED AND INLAY BROCADING

Uppada weaves involved the art of inlay brocading. The base fabric is less dense than Venkatgiri, so as to make way for the inlay patterning, in both the weft and warp.

Uppada sarees and weaves have also been awarded the Geographical Indication (GI) tag.

ADILABAD KHADI

A large number of villages around Adilabad in the north eastern and western coastal area of Andhra Pradesh have been known for their fine hand-spinning skills. Because of plentiful availability of the fine cotton, a wide range of cotton textiles have emerged from this area. In the central northern region there is scope for medium and coarse khadi, and the finest can go up to 115 counts spun on desi charkha or the traditional spinning wheel.

HANDSPUN / HANDLOOM KHADI – JAMDANI (INLAY BROCADING)

Adilabad, alongside Karimnagar and Medak, also boasts of the skill of the highly valued Jamdani inlay brocading with hand-spun yarns, adding another interesting layer to the textiles emerging from this area.

GADWAL AND KOTHAKOTA - COTTON BODY WITH SILK BORDERS AND END PIECES


A well-woven cotton fabric combined with heavy borders and end piece in silk, ornamented further in silk or metallic yarn, is the characteristic Gadwal Cotton Weaves. The unique placement of the materials, large design vocabulary and variation in texture and color make it a hugely exciting fabric.

NARAYANPET - LIGHT SILKS


The silks of Narayanpet resemble the layouts of the cotton sarees, through the plain or check body with contrast colors in borders and end piece. In the limited design directory of the double, triple or quadruple line fine flower motif, the arrowhead and the saw edge, and innumerable permutations and combinations between them, they seem to create a very distinct identity. Its dense colors and complex body colors and strikingly contrast end pieces are very dramatic.

DHARMAVARAM


Dharmavaram sarees mirror the temple architecture of Tamil Nadu and Karnataka with more heavy ornamentation in end pieces and distinct flowing border patterns with or without the checks in the body or the body motif.

The rich heavy sarees are a must for every married woman’s wardrobe.