Aieed 2011

Mojari or Jooti Craft of Rajasthan

The mojari is the traditional footwear made out of leather, handcrafted and designed with care to perfection and excellence, with simple tools like a needle, a knife, a wooden block and hammer.

With the use of vegetable tanned leather, the mojari of Rajasthan may be identified by their soft upper of cow, goat or buffalo leather; thick buffalo leather; thick buffalo leather sole and heel are constructed of layers of leather that are glued together and then stitched with cotton thread. The uppers are constructed with one leather piece and then embroidered and embellished with cotton textile embroidery, nails, cowries, mirrors and beads.

After the upper part have been affixed to the sole, colored dyes of green, red and pink are put on it. A thin leather strip, curling upwards, around the toe, is also a protective means to cover the toe.

What is interesting, is that there is no marked difference betweenthe right and left foot, and the mojari takes the shape of the foot of the wearer; it is unidirectional.

The thermal properties of the locally sourced vegetable tanned leather acts in combination with the thick sole to insulate the wearer from the extremes of the desert climate, an extremely useful characteristic in footwear worn mostly by farmers who walk across the rough terrain of the region, the sand dunes and thorny, muddy pathways.

The mojaris are different for the women, as they are usually indoors. The footwear made for their use is thinner soled and usually embellished with red tassels. Generally, the men perform the leather work, including the ornamental punching and studding , while the women undertake the embroidery, which is done either directly on leather or on textile (natural or synthetic) in woolen, cotton or silk the threads are selected depending on the material of the upper surface. Recently, the craft has begun to cater to the urban and export market; consequently, the previously unidirectional mojari is now being made with a left-right distinction although still using the three-piece last integral to indigenous footwear construction technology.

Image Courtesy: Handmade in India, M P Ranjan and Aditi Ranjan, 2007, COHANDS