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Chikan Embroidery
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Lucknow, the capital of Uttar Pradesh, was and is famous for its Chikan Embroidery. Chikan Embroidery is known for its gracefulness, agility and delicateness. Though it has lost its old glory, it has still been exploited commercially. Any wardrobe of an Indian woman is incomplete without a Lucknavi Chikan Embroidery Salwar Kameez.
The word 'chikan' is derived from the Persian term ‘ chikaan’ meaning drapery. Apparently it came to India during the time of Shah Jehan, the Mughal Emperor. It was his wife, Noor Jehan, who brought this tradition with her.
Chikan Embroidery is done with white threads on white cloth. Although, there has begun the use of colored threads on white material, originally it was always done on white cloth with white threads. The three tests of minuteness, number and clarity of stitches define the beauty of Chikan Embroidery. Today chikan work is
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not only done with colored threads but on all kinds of fabrics like silk, crepe, organdie chiffon, and tussar. Nowadays sequel is also added to the Chikan embroidery, to jazz up and add some dazzle to the dress.
The cloth used in Chikan Embroidery is usually super fine cotton, muslin and linen. Now all the fabric used is mill-made, and cotton polyester mixtures and thin silk are used in addition to cotton.
There are six basic stitches, which are used in combination with a series of stitches for embossing flowers and leaves. Some stitches are worked from the front of the fabric, others form the back.
While embroidering, the needle is inserted in the cloth with one hand and the other hand supports it from beneath the surface in order to give it the desired shape.
In its vastness of stitches, about 40 of them, there are 3 types: Flat, Raised and Embossed Stitches, and Open trellis-like jaali work. A lot has been documented about the stitches of Chikan Embroidery.
Motifs include Mughal inspired flowers like the paisley, rose, jasmine, etc, and creepers. Some geometric patterns are also introduced.
Undoubtedly, it is one of the most subtle and understated yet a powerful style statement!
Images sources from Google Search Engine, with the term 'Chikan Embroidery' |
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