Chamba Rumals

Chamba Rumals
The Kulu valley in Himachal Pradesh is best known for its shawl weaving. However, it is also known for its embroideries. Chamba and its neighbouring hill states, such as Kangra and Basohli, have been the centers of ‘rumal’ production. A ‘rumal’ basically means a handkerchief and the square or rectangular shaped textile pieces were primarily used for covering gifts. The Chamba rumals mirror the creative expressions and the innermost feelings of the womenfolk there. The Pahari miniature painting style is also the means of form in these rumals. There are many Pahari miniatures that showcase the gifts to be exchanged between the families of the bride and groom, wrapped in the Chamba rumals. This embroidery is done on hand-spun or hand-
woven unbleached mul-mul or fine khaddar produced in Punjab. Chamba rumals were embroidered in silks of soft colors, using small double-darning stitch, so that an identical design appeared evenly on both sides of the cloth, and double running stitch was used for outlines and details. Their size can vary from one and a half to four feet. Apart from being used as a gift wrapping item, larger sizes of the Chamba rumals were used in temples and homes as a backdrop to the deity. The composition of each rumal has essentially been the same. It is made up of a floral border that has a finely drawn religious scene set against clear, and beige or white background. The initial sketches are traced in charcoal and then embroidered in a double satin-stitch called Do-Rukha (reversible). The themes of the rumal are inspired by Hindu mythology and religion. Hindu deities like Ganesha, Krishna with Radha and Gopis in Raas Lila surrounded by clusters of willow and cypress trees and running animals such as tigers, horses and deer, musical instruments, floral motifs, birds, animals and architecture inspired from Kangra paintings, form the palette of these rumals. The colors of Chamba rumals are very bright, bold and included pink, lemon yellow, purple and green. Other chic colors included ochre, dark green, blue and paler shades. Chamba rumals were being made till the early part of this century but after the decline of the feudal system, this art form began to fade away. Images sources from Google Search Engine, with the term ‘Chamba Rumal'