Block Printing at Bagru
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Bagru is 35 kms away from Jaipur and is most famous for its block prints. Block printing is very popular because of the simple process which can create such amazing prints and that too in bold and vibrant colors.
As the world wakes up to environmental consciousness and eco-living, this little village has been attracting attention as one of the must-have items in your home wardrobe. What draws the crowds is its ancient art and craft form that is high on ecological consciousness and for its use of eco-friendly hand block printing practices
Characterized by the sheen given to the finished cloth by the waters of the Sanjara River and a robust color palette of indigo, black and red, green, pink and orange derived from natural sources; and the mud resist, dyed and mordant prints of Bagru catered to the folk, trading, agricultural and artisan communities that
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constituted the local population. Each of these communities had a specific sartorial code; the combination of colors and motifs used on a printed skirt, veil or garment could identify the wearer`s community and occupation as well as the season.
The Chhipas of Bagru came and settled here from Sawai Madhopur, Alwar, Junjhunu and Sikar districts of Rajasthan some 300 years ago. The name ‘Bagru’ comes from the word ‘Bagora’, which essentially means an island in a lake. This city was known for its palm fan and ‘chintz’ (fadat) production pattern in medievaltimes. .
Products
Earlier, the Chhipas engaged themselves in production of all local varieties of printed fabrics- fadats- indigo fabric, angochha- small towel, bichhauna- bed spread, rajai- quilt etc. and now they have diversified in the making of sophisticated kaftans, wraparound skirts, T Shirts, shirts, sarees, dress materials, et al. The only thing that remains unchanged is the basic techniques, processes and colors. And that is what makes the Bagru prints spectacularly different, distinctive and highly specialized.
Patterns, Colors and Process
The Chippas settled along the riverside, like any other nomadic settlement. The bank of the river provided then with clay which is an important ingredient in getting the base color of the famed Bagru prints. The artisans smear the cloth with Fuller’s earth got from the riverside and then dip it in turmeric water to get the beige colored background. After that, they stamp the cloth with beautiful designs using natural dyes of earthly shades.
The predominant colors in use are indigo blue, alizarin, iron block and bright yellow on coarse cotton cloth through block printing and dyeing. Bagru prints are done on off-white, ivory white, or beige background. The main colors used in Bagru printing are black, red and maroon. These three main colors are extracted from naturally occurring sources: black is derived from worn-out iron horse or camel shoes soaked in water, red comes from gum paste and phitkari, and maroon is a result of mixing the above two colors.
Apart from these base colors, natural vegetable dyes are used to add colorful patters and designs. These include madder, indigo, pomegranate rind, turmeric, etc. Pigment colors such as green, rust, blue, violet, brown, and pink are added to appease wider markets. There is also a traditional reason for picking a particular color in the designs, such as indigo for Lord Krishna, saffron for a saint or yogi, yellow for spring season, etc.
As is known, synthetic dyes are used nowadays, but the processes do remain the same. Interestingly, Bagru prints get a reddish tinge after it is soaked in the river water.
The Chhipas of Bagru produce a variety of fabrics printed in motifs of the gulab or rose, neem leaf, gobi or cauliflower, mirchi or Chili, mukut (Crown), dhaniya ki bel (coriander sprig or creeper). Here, geometrical forms co-exist along with floral, animal and bird forms. Everything seemed to be inspired from local flora and fauna. The traditional ‘motifs’ of Bagru have however under gone change over the years. Traditionally, motifs printed at Bagru are large with bold lines and more geometric in nature.
Despite all kinds of difficulties, Bagru prints are here to stay, thanks to the ecological consciousness and design innovation that constantly allows it to reinvent itself.
Images sourced from Google Search with the term "Bagru Block Printing"
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