Aieed 2011

Banjara Embroidery

The Banjaras are a tribe of north Indian origin, who moved south into the Deccan plateau during the seventeenth century as carters in the baggage train of the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb. The Banjaras had to abandon their ancestral profession as carters, due to the British railway building during the nineteenth century. They now live in small villages called ‘tandas’ throughout the Deccan plateau, and work mainly as casual laborers. Banjara women always wear their finest cloths and jewelry, even when doing hard manual labor on building sites or breaking up stones for public roads.

Banjara embroidery is noted for its lively decoration-cowrie shells, coins, cotton and woolen tassels weighted with lead and glass beads and mirror work are all used to adorn their textiles. The Banjara women of Andhra Pradesh wear gaghras, cholis and odhnis in bold appliqué and mirror work; more subtle is the work of the
Banjara of Madhya Pradesh and adjoining areas in Maharashtra and Karnataka. The Banjara to be found in Malwa and Nimar districts of Madhya Pradesh and across into Maharashtra towards Jalgaon produce beautiful work made up of squares and rectangles of cross and stem stitch, contained within a grid laid out in closely worked herring-bone stitch. Designs are either geometric or angularly zoomorphic. The most common articles produced are the square, tasseled rumals (kerchiefs) edged with cowries, which are used for presentations at ceremonies and in ceremonial dances; purses (‘batua’) for money or areca nuts; and cholis; gaghras and odhnis are also embroidered.

Other Banjara make beautiful, quilted rumals, bags and purses, usually on brown or sometimes blue cloth, Patterning is sometimes confined to quilting stitches, but more usually cotton threads are laid on in contrasting geometric patterns, and then couched down. Further south, the Banjara work some of the most intricate embroidery, using woolen or cotton thread and a great repertoire of stitches, making bags, purses, waist bands and a rectangular piece of embroidery edged with cowrie shells, which hangs down from a head ring called an ‘indhoni’ on which the women balance pots of water.

Images sources from Google Search Engine, with the term 'Banjara Embroidery'